Friday, June 19, 2009
New Orleans
I came across these pics the other day, from a trip that I took to New Orleans in 2002, pre Katrina. I had been thinking about this trip recently, and it was part of an odd triangle between Ghana, New Orleans and Canada and how all these places having relationships around the trans Atlantic slave trade. It began in Ghana and flourished in the southern United States (among many other places) and Canada was the last stop on the Underground Railroad.
It should also be noted that their were slaves in Canada until it was abolished by the British Empire, which happened prior to the Abolition Act in the United States. Anyway, before I launch into a very shoddy historical review, I just wanted to note the historical relationship between these three places in the cycle of slavery.
Perhaps it was my imagination, but I did get the sense that New Orleans had more racial tension than Toronto did. I felt a real vibe that the long term ramifications were still playing themselves out. To borrow a phrase, I got the distinct sense that their were "two solitudes" in this city.
This became abundantly clear to me in a bar in The French Quarter, as I made a rookie error that only the dumbest traveler makes. In this case I learned my lesson at a very cheap price. In some places, the same naivete can get you killed.
In the late afternoon I am quaffing a pint while reading the local paper, the awesomely named Times - Picayune. I have no idea what a picayune is, but it is fun to say. Anyway the 5pm news comes on and because I am very up to date with my Times Picayune ( its even fun to write!) I feel very well informed to comment on the top story of the day.
The top story of the day was that the recently elected mayor was cracking down on corruption at city hall. By far, New Orleans is percieved to be the most corrupt city in North America. I thought it was a good thing that the mayor was trying to clean house. The thing was that the mayor was black and the top level city execs being hauled out of their city hall offices were white, as were the people sitting around the bar with me that day.
Lets just say that I represented the minority opinion. I realised I should shut my mouth just as the bartender quelled a potential incident with a few deft words. I returned to my Times Picayune, but this time decided I should read the sports section. How bout d'em Saints!
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